...Adventure begins...

Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Wierd Place this is...

The big thing to eat here is Peri Peri sauce - it is a hot sauch developed here by the Portugese hundreds of years ago.

There is a funny and mildly lewd advertising campaign around this yummy sauce, and so I just looked on their website: www.nandos.com to see if I could find their ads online. They do not have them, but they do have this nifty quote:

We understand the profound power of a cultural heritage to build a strong and united country and in the tradition of great tasting peri-peri.

Yes, Both of those things are indeed important, and good things to think about on election day (it is election day here). Strong and United Country. Yummy sauce.

How we did not see Princess Magogo

Princess Magogo sounded like such an exciting opera - the lead role was being sung by a tlented African singer, and the entire production was being funded by a man who as a condition of his financial support insisted in being *in* the cast for the next 10 years, and who does not actually happen to be a singer. It was at an amphitheatre, and we could have looked at the stage and at the stars, and have had a fantastic time.

Unfortunately, we spent the evening in quite a different fashion:

By Friday afternoon, after a healthy lunch and a bit of shopping in the pedestrian St. George Mall (Purses from Nepal. That is all there is to say), sister and I started to feel a bit queasy. We rented our adorable Nissan Micra and motored as far as Stellenbosch, and somehow managed to rent a B&B and get TO the B&B, and after that we were *violently* ill. One, the other, then back to the first one. The room we were in was like a sauna. We had paid for airconditioning and we had fevers and there wasn't air conditioning...

So, we changed rooms, and were *violently* ill some more...

Doesn’t that sound dramatic? Well, it was so unpleasant that we managed to stagger back to the car and to the hospital. Yes, it is South Africa. Yes, it is in some ways a 3rd world country. But this was a private clinic, and when sis had cut her finger a few weeks ago we received really good care at a private clinic.

First, they refused to let us stay together (we made a fuss about it for a while, but then decided that it was not worth it). When sister received a nausea shot the nurse didn’t clean her hands, and took the cap off the needle with her mouth. When I needed a bucket for…well, just in case, they handed me the garbage can off the floor. What was IN the bin? Among the dirty rags there was a used blood and fluid bag, and a syringe. I told the nurse that she must have something else that I could use (the place was almost empty, and the nurses were all just chatting), and she said that was all I could have. I said that I NEEDED one NOW and that I would use the one in the next bed. She blocked my path to that garbage can and announced that it was for that bed and I was not assigned that bed and that I had to get back into my bed immediately, and if I had a problem with that garbage can I could puke above it.

Well, did you know? Anger delays nausea! I marched to the front and complained, and she emptied out HER garbage can and offered it to me.

I did not puke at the hospital.

Sis and I lay in bed for all of the next day, getting all thin and interesting. We did very little the day after that, and ate a bit yesterday.

Not the ideal vacation, and we are glad to be back.

Thursday, February 23, 2006

Top Models and an Earthquake

There was an earthquake in Mozambique. Now, I don't want to get hurt there or anything, but I want to be somewhere dramatic, and I will be there soon - could it not have held off a couple of weeks...??

While checking out of our hotel I met some models.... they didn't LOOK that glamorous, but still.. It is no earthquake, but it is sort of an adventure.

Sis and I head to the winelands tonight, where we are seeing Princess Magogo, an African opera...

Diplomat in Distress

There have been rolling blackouts around the city here, and other strange electrical disruptions. The result?

Our bank cards would not work. Our VISA cards would not work. We had to hit up sis' co-worker for cash - things can always be solved when one is a diplomat in distress!

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

The Cafeteria Bris

Wendy and I have had a few really busy days in Cape Town! We are staying in a hotel near the V & A (Victoria and Albert) waterfront. There is no beach near us, but since the big ozone hole over Africa makes being in the sun more treacherous than pleasant, the beachy lack is probably for the best.

Before we came to Cape Town, everyone told us how marvelous the V&A waterfront would be – I had pictured a Tel-Aviv-style beach town, with beaches and clubs on beaches and ice cream and watermelon everywhere. Instead, there are cruise ships (and a colourful Greenpeace ship I saw yesterday) and KFCs, and kitchy shops so that tourist can dock for an hour, buy a painted ostrich egg (or mini hunting spear) and tell about how they ‘did’ Africa. I wonder if a cruise would be fun or if one would feel the entire time like one is missing out on experiencing each stop. It would be neat, though, to float away, and on to the next adventure…

Sis is spending her days interviewing refugees while I find ways to pass the time. Right now I am out of ways to pass the time (and we are out of cash, since the bank machines are all not working), and so I am at sister’s work, waiting for her to finish. The cash machine is not the only thing broken in Cape Town. For some reason there are massive rolling blackouts across the city. No electricity means no traffic lights and food in the Woolworths is going bad and elevators are randomly stopping (we haven’t been stuck in one yet). It isn’t state of emergency enough to be fun, just a bit annoying.

Yesterday I walked to the Artscape Theatre (like the Jubilee Auditorium) and bought us tickets for two shows – Princess Magogo, a South African Opera, playing on a wine estate, and Imoja, an African dance show playing at the Artscape theatre. It is a very North American venue, with Cape Town’s classical station broadcasting from the lobby. I can’t wait to see the dance show. Tonight, and we are sitting in the first row!

This morning I walked to the Jewish Museum/Holocaust Museum. It was about a 20-minute walk (longer for me, since I got a bit lost and then took the long way around), and as soon as I got searched and went through the gate I noticed that SOMETHING was happening in the cafeteria beside the gift shop. There was a blanket on a table…and..eek! It was a bris (circumcision) on one of the tables of the cafeteria! That was weird, but I haven’t been to a bris since…well, since A was born, so I peeped through the postcard rack from the gift shop…sure, I might have taken a few snapshots, but everyone else there was flashing their cams right at the poor baby’s weenie! (One lady was so close I would swear she would have had to set her camera on ‘Macro!’)
In the cafeteria. On the table. Now, I like babies as much as the next girl, but it was a bit nasty in more than one way!


I only had a quick look at the synagogue and the Holocaust museum – sis and I are going back on her lunch hour tomorrow and I want it to be new for both of us.

Oh, I am in love with one part of South Africa in particular – PERI PERI sauce. Yes, in love. It is the best sauce ever. Sooo good, I want some now!

Today the High Commission in Pretoria announces the winners of the photography competition. Wendy and I both entered 4 photos, and I wonder if we won? ‘Wonder’ actually does not express the impatience that I feel. I NEED to know. We worked so hard picking cute pictures and the waiting is torture… (we don’t know what the prizes are, but that is not the point. It is the winning… unless Wendy BEATS me in every category…)

Oh, and I feel like I bruised my rib. How? Must have been on the horse somehow. I am not that delicate, but bumping and bumping and bumping…. I am ready to ride again. I wish we were riding horses right now!

Monday, February 20, 2006

Cape Town Adventures

Wow, so much has happened on the past few days - it is hard to think of everything when the Cape Town Aquarium beckons...

We left Pretoria Frisay morning at 7:00am. The High Comission car was late picking us up, and we almost missed the airplane (sounds familiar? It really wasn't my fault this time, though, really really...) We arrived at the airport, found the driver with the sign (Mrs. Galk), and caught a ride to the car rental place, where we rented an adorable Nissan Micra, manual, of course (it was so much cheaper than nice happy automatic).

Sis had not driven a manual car for over 5 years, and Cape Town is a very hilly place, however she is a very handy and clever sis and we hardly stalled at all, and soon we were speeding along the highway - rugged mountains on one side, and the blue Atlantic on the other.

We stopped in Kalk Bay, Fish Hoek, and bunches of other strangely-named places, but soon re reached Boulders Bay, where the Cape Town PENGUINS live.

Yes, they are real penguins, and really adorable, too (and a bit bitey). We took loads of pictures, and swam im the bay where they were splashing. Penguins are so cute, and I only got bitten a little, and I managed to pet one when his back was turned.

After the darling penguins, we stopped for lattes on the boardwalk, and headed for our B&B. The directions to the B&B were not clear. Nor was the owner answering her phone. After much driving around in the dark, we arrived at an empty-looking B&B, where no-one would answer the bell.

I won't bother writing about how annoying it was to drive 40km on a 2-lane mountain highway at 11pm back to Cape Town, where we figured we had a better chance of finding lodgings. Or the moods we were in once (thanks to a kindly gas station manager who let us use his phone) when we finally arrived at a musty downtown motel. It is good, however, that we did not have to revert to our alternate plan, which was to drive to the airport and watch planes taking off all night...

The next day we decided to make certain that we did lots of fun activities, so drove back down the coast, and stopped at a Tourist Information booth. Through them, we booked HORSEBACK RIDING on the beach. Now, in the books which little girls read horses are gentle and riding them is easy. Not so! Wendy had a knack and was cantering and trotting all over, but after my horse (aptly named Storm) ran away with me back to the stables, I was not in the mood to canter. Why is it so hard to ride a horse? It took most of the 2 hours to get the knack of it (and I am hurting SO MUCH today) but I think that next time I might even be willing to try a little cantering.

We also saz baboons by the highway. And a guinea-pig creature that is actually biologically related to a kangaroo. And I caught a darling gekko who kept nipping my fingers. That was Saturday.

Yesterday we came to Cape Town proper. We spent a few hours wandering through the African Market (NO ONE is better at bartering than my sis.... I mean, I thought I was good, but wow, is she better!) and buying necklaces, and then had a nap in the hotel and went out for Thai.

There are more details, but I do want to get to the aquarium today....

Tuesday, February 14, 2006

Dinner Guests




Tonight we are having a dinner party! There will be two guests, and we are going to eat stew - isn't that african??! Well, even if it isn't, it will be fun.

We booked the hotel for Cape Town next week - it will be Gay Pride Week there, so the whole city should be one huge party. Hoorah! Pretoria isn't very party-ful, so it will be nice to have fun things to do and to watch. Also there are penguins and sharks. What could be better?

Back to writing budgets and sample programs - whoever said a singer just had to SING?!?


***

Oh, here are some more pictures from the weekend:

Monday, February 13, 2006

Some Pictures









Here are some more pictures! They are:

-Me, in the longest dress ever. It was so heavy - SO heavy! And people kept standing on it, and it had a huge rip...

-A city of shacks. There are probebly a million people living in tin shacks. It is not the best picture, I will try to get a better one...

-Kefira (the dog) being adorable

-Me, getting bit in the rear by a lion


-Sis and a lion

Weekend Adventures

Another Monday morning, and sis and I are both okay, which, considering our weekend, is a very good thing. The weekend was certainly fun, but it was *gasp* fraught with peril. Saturday morning was sunny for once, so we planned to drive to the Lion and Rhino park, which was about an hour from Johannesburg. Wendy cut up some granadillas (the best fruit EVER¡­ there is granadilla yoghurt and juice and all sorts of delicious things here) and the knife slipped and sliced her poor finger. There was gobs of blood, but we bandaged it up creatively (using the supplies we could find, as the gauze pads had all disappeared in her move), and hoped the bleeding would stop. Sis was very brave, and still wanted to go to the park, and soon we were off. The park had lions and wild dogs roaming freely, and as long as one kept one¡¯s windows mostly closed, it is a safe way to enjoy lions. We watched the dogs and some sort of antelope, and then we came upon the lions! There were four lions and three of them crossed right in front of the car and sat beside to road. Rules? But I had a camera! I told Wendy to watch the fourth lion, and opened the window all the way and leaned out to take pictures. And suddenly from right behind me I heard a cough. A LION cough! He was 2 feet away from my head and coming closer. There were screams and eeks but we got the window closed right as he walked by (ignoring us completely). Someone had not been doing her lion-watching duty. I guess sis had gotten bored with watching a majestic lion, and instead had been examining her legs to see if they needed a wax. She did not even feel guilty about it!

There was a little pen where one could pet young lions. It looked like fun, so we paid our 20R (4$) and went in. The lions watched Wendy walk by. They watched the trainer walk by. Milo, a white tiger and the one who was closest to the door, watched me until I was beside him and then with a leap he latched his fangs onto my stomach.

I NEED my stomach! It does all sorts of useful things (like keeping my entrails in). I tried to push the lion away, but as soon as he let go and I twisted away he latched onto my back. There is not as much back for fangs to sink into, so I managed to push him off again, and then the demonic lion bit me in the rear. Poor me! The trainer was laughing. Wendy was laughing so much she could barely stand (or snap a picture). The other tourists outside the gate were laughing, and I was trying to imagine what life would be like with only a left-hand buttock. FINALLY the trainer made the lion let go, and we moved on. The next lion licked my leg and then nipped me below the knee. The next lion bit my left arm (one of the fangs punctured the skin and it swelled a bit later, filthy beast). I got one picture looking cute near a lion, but as we were heading out Milo found my rear again. Ouch! Poor me! We left the park and stopped at a gas station to clean off the red mud and to wash the lion nips. Then we drove to Johannesburg, where a family Wendy knows had invited us to an engagement party. It was a very interesting party, and a gorgeous property.

We left at 9, since we knew we had a long and potentially dangerous drive home. I drove, but we followed the Canadian High Commission rules for avoiding carjacking (which happen here to white girls who are alone all the time): DO NOT STOP. Red light? Roll towards is slowly so you can time it so that you won's have to stop. If you reach the light and it is still red, then run the light. (!) I made one wrong turn, off the highway into downtown Pretoria, but we still got home safely.

On Sunday morning we decided that Wendy's finger had bled long enough, and we drove down the street to the emergency room (since it was a Sunday there was no doctor's office open). Now, I have watched Grey¡¯s Anatomy on television, but I had never actually been in a private health care facility. Wow. I need to be rich. The parking is free and there are attendants to direct the patient to the correct entrance.

The hospital's foyer was decorated in a Roman theme ¨C busts in stone, pillars, etc. The emergency room was slightly less posh, but after signing in and getting coffees (the gift shop had fantastic lattes, and they were cheap, too!) we did not even sit down before we were being called into a room. The doctor was very nice, and he spent about an hour with us (it never hurts to be a cute girl. Or two.) Sis got a tetanus shot and two stitches. It took eight needles to freeze my sister's bionic finger, but she was really brave and has a cute bandage now. We stopped at Fruit and Veg City on the way home to buy some more granadillas, and went home for lunch. In the afternoon was my performance at the State Theatre, which went really well but for a few very annoying glitches.

The enormous dress which I was given to wear had not been shortened (the costume lady had waved her hand and said that I was not to worry when I expressed concern about the 6 feet or so of extra dress). It was enormous and heavy and everyone kept stepping on me. Also at the end of the performance I had been told that one of the singers would tell me when to go on stage for the bows. It sounded simple enough. Well, there were no bows. Instead, I was dragged onstage in the middle of a song and dance number which ended the show. A SONG which I had never heard before in my life, and a DANCE which I obviously did not know. Everyone else had changed from their ball gowns into their cocktail dresses. And they were dancing. I waved my arms and tried to keep up, but that was not fair, and it was not in my contract.

In the evening we watched Tim Burton's Corpse Bride. I want to be an animator!

Friday, February 10, 2006

A few pictures







Here are some more pictures!

They are:
Sis and I at the park at the craft market

Boys working in the township...I showed them the pictures after I took them and they kept posing...really cute!

Wendy's dog...desperately trying to escape to playplayplay with other dogs

Frog situation ;)

More in a couple of days, it is time for WEEKEND!

Us in the park restaurant... not only was the doggie allowed, but we got lots of attention... isn't she photogenic!

Thursday, February 09, 2006

Washrooms

I just visited the little girls' room and found....

...FREE CONDOMS!!

Now, I think it is hilarious because this is the Canadian High Comission and not only can the officers and staff here afford to purchase their own contraceptives, but WHO is having sex at work?! Maybe I need to get a job here....

Feisty Parrot

The headlines in the paper here today (there is a late edition and an early edition - good thing papers are cheap!) read:

FEISTY PARROT STOPS ROBBER
(Parrot got all het up when robber came into a JoBurg home. Robber was later shot dead, but the parrot made the front cover of the late edition)

2 CHILDREN DIE IN BUSS ROLLOVER

10 DIE IN BUS ACCIDENT

4 MORE DIE IN BUS CRASH
(we will not be taking any buses!)

ER SHOOTING IN CAPE TOWN
(no, for once it is not an actual shooting. Noah Wyle and company are here to shoot African episodes of ER and we are going to Cape Town and sister is getting into the stalking mode)

This is not in the newspaper, but for interest's sake, guess who is here: Paul Martin! Lose and election, come to Africa. Seeme logical to me. He is probebly not coming to the High Comission, but he is here. Also in the waiting room of the HC is a new picture of our NEW Prime Minister - it has been blown up from a very low-pixel internet image and looks SOO cheap. There is no better picture on the internet, I guess...

Let's see, what else is new...
It is raining, and last night was a terific thunderstorm. Today I went on a business lunch to discuss logistics for one of the concerts here. Tonight is the dress rehearsal for another concert. Honestly, when I bought sister tickets for an opera at the Arts Centre here I did not imagine that I would be singing with that company at that arts centre 5 months leter - it is wierd how things work!

If I can think of anything else I will write another post. I have to work on the program for one of the concerts...

Tuesday, February 07, 2006

Not so rainy anymore

it is alomst 3, and sis will be fnished work soon - most of the morning was taken upwith WAITING for a meeting and GOING to a meeting..

There have been surprisingly few adventures this trip thus far. Who would have thought that Trinidad would be a zillion times better than Africa?? That cannot be! I have to work on this....

Rainy Day in Africa

On this rainy Tuesday I am sitting outside Wendy’s office, waiting for the mall to open, so that I can pick up our photos. Really, photo labs are the same everywhere – the is the third time I’ve had to go back, and I doubt that they will be done right this time either. I guess I have nothing better to do at 8 in the morning (it is not quite 7 now).

Sis and I just came from the gas station, where we filled up her car. Unfortunately, the VISA machine was not working, so the station manager suggested that we return to pay for the gas later. That is a lot of trust (!). Wendy was all ready to pitch a fit if he said we had to then pay with cash, as we did not have any cash, but there was no fit needed.

Nothing too exciting has been happening. I have my first rehearsal with the opera company here, and a meeting to discuss repertoire for our March concert, which has thus far been rescheduled about 6 times. This is it. If we do not actually meet today I will be the one pitching the fit. It should be an interesting meeting, though, and I hope the repertoire we pick will be interesting.

Last night sis and I played Boggle and watched Fear Factor South Africa. It is not exactly safaris every night, but FF was hilarious. It is a different format than in the US – There are 20 contestants and a few are eliminated each show. This is episode 3, and they are down to 14 players. Also, the safety guidelines are somewhat more lax than back home, and players are actually getting hurt quite badly. On the first epoisode one girl lost a chunk of her hair after being dragged behind a truck. On he second episode they had to ride a bicycle through glass, and everyone is bandaged and scraped. During the night the players have to sleep in a tent and they have ‘boot camp’ activities in the morning, to make them weaker. It is cruel, but it is good tv. Last night they had to jump from one boat to another, and one girl was crying in agony after she hit her leg during the jump (I think that was the same girl who lost her hair). In the second task they were strapped to a ‘torture table’ and their heads were encased in a box of milk, and if they drank enough, they would be able to breathe long enough win. Unfortunately, sometimes the milk was fresh, and sometimes it was 3 days old. Good Tv.

I didn’t believe it from Canada, but there really is not a lot to do in Pretoria. It is like Edmonton – there isn’t a lot in the vicinity of the city. Driving around at night isn’t safe because of the hijackings of cars and the attacks on women in the card, and during the day there are ‘smash-and-grabs’ – basically, smashing a window at a red light and grabbing whatever one can. Officers at the HC have been instructed not to stop at red lights at night because that is where people are lying in wait. It is not horribly scary or anything, but there are attacks in the areas where we go – there are attacks EVERYWHERE – and constant vigilance is a bit boring. Also it is raining every evening, and all day today, it seems.

There are strange things culturally here, but one gets used to it all pretty fast – gas stations (but for the one we went to this morning) do not take credit cards, and the gas attendant must be tipped. In parking lots (which are seldom free) there are random men who stand by the cars and also demand a tip. Streets and cities have 2 names usually – an old afrikanaas name, an a new ‘African’ (maybe Zulu or Aswana) name. Maps use either. Street signs use either.

Oh, here is something interesting. On the weekend one of Wendy’s drivers took us to Mamelodi, the township near to Silver Lakes (townships are basically Black cities on the outskirts of White cities, which were built to hold the workers etc. so that they could travel to Pretoria or wherever to work, but that they would not sleep within the cities.) Aparthied is over, townships remain.

He drove us to the rehearsal of a community orchestra – kids and adults on electric guitars and drums and violins. It was fascinating to see, but after 90 minutes of loud banging music we were ready to go. I had to make an ‘uplifting’ speech at the end of the rehearsal, and sing a bit for them. They really enjoyed it, and that part was a lot of fun. (It is hard saying people play well when they most certainly DO NOT)

After the rehearsal we were supposed to go to a Shabeem (Township bar). It was not open yet, however, so Lazarus, the driver, took us to his men’s club. Sort of like the Waterbuffalos in the Flintstones. A tiny room full of drunken men playing music ear-bleedingly loud and watching WWF. Sis and I were the only girls, the only white people, and the only ones not in the club. It was beyond awkward. Actually we were the only white people in the township. We didn’t see one other. Stupid skin colour, it would be a lot more fun if we weren’t so conspicuous. In the end, though, the townships are like any Caribbean village or city, but in the Caribbean people are friendly and welcoming, not suspicious.

More later, it is almost time to get the photos.

Friday, February 03, 2006

The AIDS children

Today I went around with two of the military wives (whose husbands are here to ensure CONSTANT VIGILANCE and the security of Canadians, or something) to a school they had renovated, and an AIDS orphanage.

The kids at the school (which was about 40 minutes from Pretoria in a township) started crying when we came in because they had never seen a white person before, much less three. They were sute toddlers, but even cuter were the boys outside working to clean the street. When they saw that I had a camera they got all excited and motioned that I should take their picture - they posed with each other and with their donkeys - they were so sweet! They were about 6. 8 and 9 and I gave then each some candy and a toy, and go their address from their older brother (they didn't speak any english) so I can mail them prints of the pictures.

The babies at the AIDS orphanage were adorable. The didn't look sick, just like sweet babies. There were only 4 there at the moment - the goal of the place is to foster them with families who ensure that they stay nourished and that they receive their medications.

Honestly, though, I think I prefer kids a little older than babies. Babies don't really do much, do they?

Thursday, February 02, 2006

Another day in Africa

Getting a pedi is a wonderful thing. My feet are looovely now, and for pedicure standards it was really cheap. And what girl does not look good inpink polish? (sister got a french pedi)

Today is the deadline for the Canadian High Comission PHOTO CONTEST. What? A Contest? A competition?!?! Wendy and I spent hours carefully choosing our photos, and I just spent almost 2 hours at the photo lab, cropping each one and describing what I needed done. We had better win!

Tomorrow there will be lots to write about, since I will be going to an orphanage. I have SO much great stuff to give away. Dollies, and candy, clothes, and dress jewellery..

More later, I have to actually get something done today on the computer..

Wednesday, February 01, 2006

Wednesday Already!

It had been a while since I have written anything - it is not that I am not doing anything, but a lot of what goes on here in everyday life is not necessarily interesting.

I am in an Internet cafe this afternoon (there is not actually a cafe, but there are computers) in Hatfield, the student district of Pretoria. I am sorting through emails, and waiting for sis to finish work, since this afternoon we are going for..... pedicures!

I guess Pedis are not really Stouh-African, but I have never had one before, they are really cheap here, and I am excited. There is even a beauty salon in the gated golfing community where my sis lives.

Let's see, what is new:...

The telephone is still broken.

The alarm worked for 1 day and is broken again.

The TV is fixed, but there are better things to do here than watching TV, and the memory card for my camera has broken somehow also.

This morning the gardener and his two assistants came for the weekly beautification of sister's lawn. The British head gardener knocked on the door and asked me if I had put the kettle on so tht I could make him some tea. Now, come on... just because I gave him tea 2 weeks ago is no reason why he should expct me to make him a little tea party every time he comes! And whenI gave the gardeners water, he praised me for being 'too kind to them' and 'spoiling them'. It is 28 degrees and really sunny and one of the guys was only 15 or 16 years old! It is as if aparthied still exists sometimes...

The exciting news this week is that I have been invited to perform concerts in Zambia (!) and Mozambique (!!!). We are still settling the details, but it means exciting trips (I was going to Zambia anyway withsis, but doing a concert there would make it even better)

Also, this Friday I am going to an AIDS orphanage/school with a group of the Canadian wives. I have so many toys and dollies and clothes from Canada for them, but I would rather give them out with Wendy there. Still, it will be fascinating!

The High Comission is having a photo contest here. I need to take the perfect photo! I need to win!!

That is all for now, I have to actually get something done before my meeting with the Zambian cultural coordinator...